Hands up, who can spell Havaianas without looking? If you’d asked me two years ago, there would have been far fewer a’s and a couple of extra i’s in my answer. But now? When I can’t walk down the high street, through the supermarket or into my nan’s house without seeing the rubber flip flop in every iteration of shade, I could probably spell it backwards.
The brand’s relentless staying power, despite now being 64 years old, is truly something to marvel at. If you can tell me another non-luxury label, aside from Levi’s, that has done the same with just one product, my inbox is open. So, we have to ask: what keeps them on top?
Just last week, at Copenhagen Fashion Week, the brand debuted a brand-new design, and a rather daring one at that: the Havaianas kitten heel. Picture an enclosed big toe but open other toes, and a kitten heel in a swathe of shades—white, lime green and black—spotted on key influencers across the event and on the Studio Constance runway. And with thousands of likes and comments across Instagram, they’ve clearly hit the mark.
Though not everyone's a fan. With such a divisive shape, the debate about whether they're actually wearable (or beautiful) is raging. And there’s one key catch: they aren’t actually available to buy yet. Sorry.
If you’re now thinking, but Havaianas only just collabed with Isabel Marant on a capsule summer collection? You’d be quite right. The coveted collection launched towards the end of May, spanning four flip flop designs that swiftly sold out and commanded many a fashion fan’s conversation in the process. And just before that, a Zara collab, with three slightly platform flip flops taking centre stage.
Havaianas x Isabel Marant SS26 collab (Image credit: Isabel Marant)
Then there was the House of Havaianas Hackney takeover on the 11th of July, bringing their Rio de Janeiro flair to East London with DJs, cocktails and, of course, flip flops. And, on top of that, there’s been no shortage of celebrity sightings in the favourite flip flops: Dua Lipa, Jennifer Aniston, Olivia Rodrigo and many more. Whether they’re paid placements or paying customers of the brand, we’ll probably never know, although I imagine it to be a mix of the two.
And, take a breath, that was in just one summer—and the season’s not yet over. The Havaianas marketing team are clearly working double time. Though this multifaceted marketing approach is far from new for the brand.
Nicky Hilton and Paris Hilton, 2004 (Image credit: Getty Images/Marie Claire)
In 1999, the Brazilian sandal brand featured in Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway show, launching it into the fashion space. Then came collaborations with streetwear label A Bathing Ape, Farm Rio, Manolo Blahnik via Naomi Campbell, Gigi Hadid Saint Laurent and even computer game Minecraft and many more, aligning the label with often even bigger brands.
You see, Havaianas have a knack for always staying relevant, tapping into culturally relevant names and labels to reach new customer segments without ever straying too far from the original design. The core collection shifts only slightly to adapt to modern trends—just take a look at the square-toe design—all the while keeping the price of a pair of flip flops competitive enough to rival any high street store. Though my mum regularly likes to let me know she used to snap them up for less than £3.
David Beckham wears Havaianas in 2004 (Image credit: Getty Images/Marie Claire)
So, there you have it: a great product and a forward-thinking marketing machine have gone a long way towards keeping Havaianas at the head of the flip flop game. Here’s to seeing whether the new kitten heel design, possibly the most daring yet, stands them in even better stead.
And if you already knew “Havaianas” means “Hawaiians” in Portuguese, chosen by the brand to evoke the feeling of an endless summer on the islands, hats off—you’re a true Havaianas mega-fan.
Shop Havaianas
Havaianas
Havaianas Unisex Brazil Logo Flip Flops in Yellow
Havaianas
Slim Split
HAVAIANAS
Logo-Embellished Rubber Flip-Flops
Havaianas
Havaianas Slim Brasil Logo Women Flipflop
Havaianas
Slim Square Toe Flip Flops in Brown
Havaianas
Havaianas Brasil Logo Unisex Adults Flipflop
Free People
Havaianas Puffed Up Flip Flops
HAVAIANAS
Slim Rubber Flip-Flops
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Botox has been a regular part of my beauty routine for the best part of a decade now. A few units for my genetically prominent frown muscles, a couple to freeze my forehead (I like the poker-faced look) and, not forgetting, a generous helping in my masseters to help with teeth grinding. But over the years, it feels as though the effects have started wearing off faster. Whereas I once waited the best part of a year to notice significant movement returning, I’m now scrabbling to book my next appointment after just a few months. Could I be becoming increasingly tolerant to Botox? And, if so, could it eventually stop working altogether?
I’m not the only one noticing this. Reddit is awash with users claiming the effects of Botox—or, more accurately, botulinum toxin—now last just two months, while others report that it has stopped working altogether after years of successful treatment. So, what’s going on? Has the formula itself changed? Are practitioners injecting less liberally than they did a decade ago? Have our expectations simply surpassed Botox’s performance parameters? Or could some of us actually be developing resistance to it? I called upon the experts to explain.
Is Botox resistance actually a thing?
First things first: yes, technically, it is possible to become resistant to botulinum toxin—but actual resistance is far less common than the conversations online might have you believe.
“True resistance to botulinum toxin is a recognised phenomenon, but it is much rarer than social media might suggest,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, NHS GP, aesthetic doctor and founder of The Aesthetics Doctor. In some cases, he explains, the immune system can develop neutralising antibodies against botulinum toxin, which can reduce—or even prevent—its effects.
Dr Vishnu Nathan, aesthetics doctor at the Taktouk Clinic, agrees, describing true toxin resistance as “relatively uncommon in aesthetic medicine”. Instead, he says, what is sometimes labelled resistance may actually be “pseudo-resistance”, caused by factors such as underdosing, suboptimal placement, compensatory muscle recruitment or unrealistic expectations.
That means if your usual Botox suddenly doesn’t seem to be doing quite as much as it once did, antibody resistance probably shouldn’t be your first assumption. As Dr Ahmed explains, differences in dose, injection technique and placement, particularly strong muscles and even the toxin formulation being used can all influence the result.
There is also an important distinction between Botox genuinely no longer working and simply not lasting as long as you remember it lasting. “In my experience, complete loss of response is uncommon,” says Dr Ahmed. “What I see much more frequently is patients feeling that their treatment isn’t lasting as long as it used to.”
The key is what you mean by not working. If you see little or no reduction in movement after treatment, that is very different from getting a good initial result and noticing movement creeping back in a few months later. Botox isn’t designed to permanently switch off a muscle; its effects gradually wear off as communication between the nerve and muscle recovers. Movement returning after a few months is therefore normal and doesn’t, in itself, mean you’ve developed resistance.
Does the way Botox is injected affect how long it lasts?
Yes, according to both doctors, this can matter enormously. Botox is the product going into the syringe, but dose, placement and treatment frequency all contribute to the final result.
“The dose, the muscles selected, the exact placement and the patient’s individual anatomy can all influence both the quality and longevity of the result,” says Dr Ahmed. Someone with particularly strong facial muscles, for example, may require a different dose from someone with relatively little movement.
Dr Nathan agrees that technique plays a major role, pointing to injection depth, muscle selection, product handling and treatment intervals alongside dose and placement.
More toxin isn’t necessarily better, either. Both doctors caution against repeatedly topping up at very short intervals. Dr Nathan says frequent top-ups and unnecessarily aggressive dosing may increase immunogenic risk, while Dr Ahmed says unnecessary exposure to higher cumulative doses and very frequent treatments is generally something practitioners try to avoid.
Dr Nathan also raises a potential issue within unregulated practice: inappropriate treatment intervals and, in some cases, the use of unlicensed or potentially more immunogenic toxins, which he says may theoretically increase the risk of treatment failure over time.
All of which is why your Botox prescription arguably shouldn't remain exactly the same forever. “I don’t believe Botox should be approached as a fixed prescription where exactly the same number of units are injected into exactly the same places indefinitely,” says Dr Ahmed.
Could your face be changing instead?
Resistance isn’t the only reason Botox can seem less effective over time. Our faces aren’t static, and after a decade of treatment, changes in muscle movement, skin quality and facial structure can all alter both how Botox works and, importantly, how we perceive the results.
“Generally, repeatedly treating the same muscle tends to reduce its activity rather than make it stronger,” explains Dr Ahmed. In some people, results can actually last well because that muscle becomes less dominant over time.
What can change, however, is the way the rest of your face moves. Both doctors point out that when movement is reduced in one area, we can begin recruiting surrounding or untreated muscles differently to compensate. “The face is incredibly dynamic,” says Dr Ahmed. What looks like Botox becoming less effective may therefore actually be a change in the balance of movement across your face.
What should you do if your Botox starts wearing off faster?
It's tempting to book an emergency top-up at the first signs of movement (at least, it is for me), but both doctors give essentially the same advice: reassess before injecting more.
“The first thing I would do is re-examine rather than automatically inject more,” says Dr Ahmed. That means looking at how quickly the treatment started working, how good the initial response was, which areas are moving again, the previous dose and how frequently you've been treated.
If you had an excellent initial response that simply wore off earlier than expected, adjusting the dose or placement next time may be enough to make it last sufficiently. If there has been very little response despite appropriate treatment, however, then it may be reasonable to consider other explanations, including reduced responsiveness.
Sometimes changing the treatment strategy or considering a different botulinum toxin formulation may be appropriate. For people who have been having particularly frequent treatments, Dr Ahmed says allowing a longer interval before treating again may also be worth considering.
Dr Nathan similarly advocates for a more flexible approach rather than simply escalating the amount of toxin, assessing everything from muscle activity and facial balance to skin quality and structural ageing to work out what has actually changed.
Ultimately, though, the takeaway isn't that anyone who has been having Botox for years is destined to become immune to it. “Genuine resistance exists, but it is relatively uncommon,” says Dr Ahmed. “If something has changed, the most important thing is to work out why rather than simply chasing the result with more and more toxin.”
This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.
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Welcome to What Lily Loves, a personal edit of the pieces, places, and ideas currently inspiring me. Think of it as your insider guide to what’s shaping my wardrobe and daily rituals. From standout finds and under-the-radar designers to shopping destinations, cultural hotspots—from restaurants and theatres to podcasts—here are the latest discoveries I’m loving.
Heading back to work after the summer holidays can be a struggle, but I always find that making a few select additions to my work wardrobe puts a spring in my step. It’s rare to be scrolling and stumble upon a handbag that is both beautiful and practical, but just this week, while scrolling through Mytheresa's new in page, I came across the Prada Boogie bag. Its roomy shape is perfect for in-the-office days that require carrying my laptop around central London, along with all my other handbag essentials, while the wider shoulder strap makes it comfortable to carry. Throw in the signature Prada distressed leather finish, and I’m sold.
Spotlight On
Every Day Earrings That Aren't Boring
Over the years, not just through my love of accessorising but also after nearly a decade of styling fashion shoots, I have accumulated quite a collection of jewellery. From earrings to statement necklaces, rings… you name it. If there’s a style or colour you need, I have it. A few weeks ago, I was tidying up my jewellery and I was excited to show my daughter, now seven, my collection and tell her that one day she could share it all with me. But her reaction wasn’t quite what I expected. Instead of jumping with excitement, her words were: “Mamma, why do you need so much jewellery?!” All of this to communicate how vast my jewellery collection is.
I’m quite a magpie and love to pick up unique pieces of jewellery on my travels. Whilst they are usually bold and vibrant, there is another side to my jewellery box: I always have a concise selection of everyday statement earrings. Substantial enough to be seen and to complement an outfit, they are equally styles that are timeless enough to go with a multitude of outfits and can be picked up as I get ready for work without much thought. If you’ve ever felt your everyday outfits were missing something, just add a pair of these.
Shop the edit:
COS
Asymmetric Abstract Floral Earrings
TREASURES
Round Roma Earrings With Pearl
Missoma
Square Pearl Statement Earrings
GUCCI
Horsebit Gold-Tone Earrings
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Silver and Gold-Tone Earrings
CELINE
Triomphe Medal Earrings in Brass With Gold Finish
New In This Week
Massimo Dutti
(Image credit: Massimo Dutti )
Massimo Dutti has long been my go-to for designer-inspired pieces on the High Street without compromising on quality. My particular favourite is the brand's selection of leather bags and shoes. I've found quite a shift in the quality of leather accessories on the High Street over the last couple of years, but Massimo Dutti continues to deliver. If you have The Row or Celine taste but are on a slightly more limited budget, then bookmark the Massimo Dutti New In page, because, in case you missed the latest Lyst Index results, Massimo Dutti came out on top alongside designer brands such as Chanel and Miu Miu.
Shop my edit:
Massimo Dutti
Pleated Midi Skirt With Contrasting Sash
Massimo Dutti
Black Strappy Dress
Massimo Dutti
Double Strap Detail Top
Massimo Dutti
Draped-neck Belted Shirt
Massimo Dutti
Strappy Midi Dress
Massimo Dutti
Nappa Leather Bucket Bag
On My Radar
The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon
(Image credit: Burberry)
From September 21 September 2026 – 3 January 2027 the V&A and Burberry have announced The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon, a free exhibition celebrating Burberry’s 170th anniversary and the enduring legacy of its iconic trench coat. Drawing from the Burberry Archive and V&A collection, the exhibition follows the evolution of the trench coat from practical military outerwear to being a globally recognised fashion symbol. Divided into ‘Invention’, ‘Craft’ and ‘Creativity’, it explores Thomas Burberry’s 1879 invention of cotton gabardine, the coat’s distinctive functional details and its continued reinvention through 19 catwalk iterations. The display also celebrates the longstanding relationship between Burberry and the V&A, ahead of the 2028 Burberry Gallery launch.
Chances are, hypochlorous acid wasn’t an ingredient you’d heard of until a few years ago. It was a little-known beauty secret, something only those in the know would seek out in the baby aisles of Boots. But now? It’s everywhere, and it’s gradually made its way out of the changing bags and into handbags. Brands including Tower28, Prequel, Medicube and e.l.f. now have their own versions, and while TikTok is full of videos telling us to spritz it onto everything from post-workout skin to active breakouts, is it actually the miracle product it’s touted to be?
It’s easy to understand the appeal. Hypochlorous acid is said to calm inflammation, reduce bacteria and support everything from acne to eczema and rosacea – all while being kind to sensitive skin, which makes sense when it’s considered safe for newborns. But the ever-growing popularity also raises an important question: if it works by killing bacteria, can it tell the difference between the ‘bad’ bacteria it’s designed to treat and the ‘good’ bacteria that help keep skin healthy? We asked the experts to find out.
What Exactly Is Hypochlorous Acid?
“Hypochlorous acid is something your body makes naturally,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Sidra Khan. “It’s part of how your immune system fights off bacteria and infection. In skincare, it’s bottled as a stable liquid that works as a gentle antiseptic, calming inflammation and keeping bacteria in check when you spray or apply it to skin.”
And, long before it became a trending ingredient, it was those antiseptic properties that made hypochlorous acid especially useful in clinical settings. Dr Stefanie Williams, dermatologist and medical director at Eudelo, uses it to disinfect skin before carrying out certain procedures, and sometimes recommends her patients use it for a few days after ablative laser treatments or at-home hair epilation to help prevent infection. It’s also used in wound care, and because it’s generally less irritating (and less likely to sting) than alcohol-based disinfectants, it’s well tolerated by most people.
Of course, its ability to reduce bacteria while calming inflammation helps explain the growing appeal for concerns like acne, eczema and rosacea, but Dr Khan says the evidence here is much more limited. Most existing research looks at short bursts of use for a particular problem, rather than indefinite daily use on skin that’s otherwise healthy. That’s why she sees hypochlorous acid as a ‘possible adjunct rather than a replacement’ for established treatments.
Does Your Skin Need Hypochlorous Acid Every Day?
Despite what TikTok might have us all believe, experts agree that the average person doesn’t—and shouldn’t—be using hypochlorous acid in their daily routine. “For most people with healthy skin, there’s no evidence that adding a daily antimicrobial spray is necessary,” says Dr Khan. “The everyday essential positioning is more marketing than medicine.”
Dr Williams concurs, adding that she will always advise against using topical hypochlorous acid as part of a daily skincare routine. “My reasoning is simply because it’s an ingredient that has broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties, and overuse may disrupt physiological microbial communities on skin,” she says.
But what exactly does that mean? In short, using hypochlorous acid too often could disturb the balance of microorganisms that naturally live on, and help protect, skin. Together, they make up the skin’s microbiome, which supports everything from the skin barrier to its ability to defend itself against potential irritants and harmful bacteria. So, as Dr Williams says, why risk disturbing it unless clinically necessary?
Ultimately, the main concern is that hypochlorous acid may not be able to tell the difference between bacteria that we want to remove and those that support skin. “It doesn’t know the difference between ‘good’ and ‘bad’,” says Dr Khan. “It just kills whatever it comes into contact with. Wipe out too much of the good stuff too often and, in theory, you leave room for less friendly bacteria to move in and weaken the skin’s natural defences.”
However, the in theory is important, simply because there isn’t enough evidence to prove that using it every day will damage your skin’s microbiome. Dr Williams says that while low-strength formulas do appear to reduce harmful bacteria without having a significant effect on the good bacteria in the short term, nobody really knows what could happen after months of continuous use.
Should You Stop Using Hypochlorous Acid Altogether?
Not necessarily: it can be an effective, well-tolerated ingredient when it’s used for a specific reason. The main issue is the idea that everybody needs to use it every day. And as Dr Khan concludes: “The science is solid for specific situations, but the marketing has run well ahead of it, and it hasn’t earned its new status as a daily must-have for everybody.”
So, for now, think of hypochlorous acid as a useful targeted treatment to be used occasionally, instead of an everyday skincare miracle that social media has made it out to be.
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I don't have particularly dry skin, but I do experience patches of flakiness and my skin can easily become dehydrated, so I know how frustrating it can be when foundation clings to those dry areas, making them look even more noticeable.
This is part of the reason why I was excited to try the Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm. Made with a 92% skincare base, it promises to hydrate, smooth and visibly firm the skin with collagen peptide, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E, while offering sheer, buildable coverage and a natural, skin-like finish. Better still, it claims to boost radiance, leave skin looking plumper and—most importantly—not settle into or exacerbate dry patches.
IT Cosmetics
Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm
How We Test
I've been wearing the Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm every day for the past week, putting it through its paces everywhere from working at home to running errands. Throughout my testing, I've been assessing how easy it is to apply, the finish it leaves behind, how well it evens out redness and dark spots, its ability to blur pores, fine lines and uneven texture, and, crucially, how well it holds up over the course of the day.
I've been a beauty editor for more than 20 years, and in that time I've tested well over 100 tinted moisturisers and skin tints. That means I have a good benchmark for what separates a genuinely great formula from one that's simply making big promises—and whether the IT Cosmetics Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm is actually worth your money.
Coming in a solid balm format, I expected this tinted moisturiser to feel much richer than it does. Instead, the moment my fingertip touched the pan, it melted into a lightweight, serum-like texture that glided effortlessly over the skin. It feels virtually weightless once applied and blends in with minimal effort.
Given that the formula is made up of 92% skincare—and that 91% of participants in the brand's consumer study said their skin felt more comfortable throughout the day after application—I had high expectations when it came to hydration. Happily, it delivered. My skin felt immediately softer, more comfortable and noticeably better moisturised, without ever feeling greasy or heavy. The formula was developed in collaboration with plastic surgeons and dermatologists, and that thoughtful approach is reflected in both the texture and the ingredient lineup, which inspired confidence before I even put it to the test.
It comes in 15 versatile shades that run from Fairest to Deep, with options for Warm, Neutral, or Cool skin tones. I use shade Fairest Neutral FN110, but each of the 15 can adapt and span a spectrum of skin shades. It offers a radiant finish, and skin that still looks like skin. It’s that little bit of added confidence when bare skin just won’t do.
The Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm is so easy to apply, and you can do it with either a brush, beauty blender sponge, or just your fingers. All work well, but I found that a foundation brush works best, as it can move the product across the skin without absorbing much of it. It also leaves the most natural finish on the skin.
You really don’t need much to cover your whole face. IT Cosmetics says the coverage is ‘sheer but buildable’, but I don’t think it is buildable. You can’t get more than sheer coverage with this, as it starts to look unnatural and patchy if you apply too much. It’s meant to be a light veil over the skin rather than something that offers serious coverage.
As I've mentioned, if you're looking for full coverage, this isn't the base for you. The Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm is exactly what it says on the tin: a sheer-coverage complexion product that perfects rather than masks. It subtly evens out skin tone, softens the appearance of redness and pigmentation, and gives the complexion a healthy, blurred finish—but your skin still looks like your skin. If you're after lightweight, glow-enhancing coverage with genuinely impressive skincare benefits, however, I think it's well worth considering.
One thing to note is just how emollient the formula is. It leaves skin feeling deeply nourished and comfortable, which is why I think those with dry or dehydrated skin will get the most out of it. It creates the kind of hydrated, non-cakey base that doesn't cling to flaky patches—a surprisingly difficult quality to find. If you have oily skin, though, you may find it a little too rich for everyday wear.
That said, I have fairly normal skin with the first signs of ageing, and I was still hugely impressed. It stayed looking fresh throughout the day, and my skin felt noticeably softer, plumper and more comfortable from the moment I applied it. In fact, when I removed my makeup that evening, my skin still felt exceptionally soft, suggesting the skincare benefits weren't just superficial. The brand claims the formula provides up to 24 hours of hydration, and based on my experience, that's a claim I can get behind.
I also found that the added hydration helped soften the appearance of the fine lines around my eyes, giving my complexion an overall smoother, fresher look. In the brand's consumer trials, 91% of users said their fine lines appeared minimised and their skin felt firmer after use, and while I can't comment on firmness after just a week of testing, I did notice that my skin looked plumper and my fine lines appeared less noticeable. As for coverage, it took down redness, softened the look of dark spots and made my complexion appear much more even, but it never completely concealed those imperfections—which, for a product like this, is exactly the point.
The 3 main ingredients that provide the IT Cosmetics Do It All Sheer Tint Face Balm’s moisturising and plumping abilities are biosynthetic collagen peptides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E. Its emollient benefits come from that vitamin E, while hyaluronic acid plumps the skin and minimises the appearance of fine lines. The biosynthetic collagen peptides are basically short chains of amino acids that act as cell signallers to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as wound healing.
I just wish this product contained SPF, as that added benefit would have greatly increased its appeal. When this product is designed to be more skincare than makeup and appeal to those with skincare needs, SPF seems like an obvious first step to me.
At 35, I'm still not sure whether I want children. Like so many women my age, I hoped a fertility assessment might offer the kind of certainty I couldn't find on my own. Instead, it left me asking a much bigger question than whether I'd ever become a mother.
What It Feels Like Looking for Answers About Your Fertility
I used to think that getting older meant becoming more certain of yourself. At 15, I was steadfast in my decision not to have children. At 25, I wore that certainty almost as a badge of honour. At 35, I find myself utterly bamboozled, plagued by indecision, unable to answer what feels like one of adulthood's most fundamental questions.
I've lived in this state for the best part of five years now, and it seems to me that the harder I search for answers, the more they elude me.
"Whether I want kids is a secret I keep from myself—it is the greatest secret I keep from myself," Sheila Heti writes in Motherhood. A friend sent me the book from Japan after reading an essay I'd written about being 33 and unsure whether I wanted children. She'd taped that sentence to the front cover with a Post-it note.
"Will I ever know?" I'd written back then.
Over two years later, I'm more confused than ever.
It seems I'm not alone. "It's not something that's always at the forefront of my mind," one friend told me when I asked whether she felt similarly. "But it's always there."
Another friend had recently taken an AMH test; a blood test that measures Anti-Müllerian Hormone and is often misleadingly marketed with ominous taglines suggesting it can tell women "how long they've got left". In reality, it offers an indication of ovarian reserve and is mainly used in IVF to estimate how many eggs might be retrieved during treatment. What it can't tell you—and what no current test can—is whether those eggs are viable, or whether you'll ever need them.
Still, she'd found reassurance in her results. "It might give you some clarity," she suggested.
Clarity, rather than an egg count, was what I was searching for.
The World's Most Fertile Couple (Or So I Hoped)
I'd like to tell you that what followed was exhaustive research into the most reputable fertility clinics, spreadsheets comparing success rates and patient reviews.
Instead, the clinic found me. While reporting on the UK's fertility industry , I'd spoken to IVI London about the growing number of misconceptions women have about fertility. Later, they reached out to ask whether I'd be interested in experiencing their most comprehensive fertility assessment. I said yes.
On the surface, I didn't think I had particularly strong feelings about it. I was grateful for a job that occasionally grants me access to experiences I'd never otherwise be able to afford, especially on an editorial salary. The couple's fertility assessment would normally have cost hundreds of pounds, before the additional AMH blood test.
And yet I couldn't bring myself to book it. The clinic emailed every few weeks. I kicked the can down the road. Months passed. A new year arrived. "The Year of the Fire Horse is going to kick you into action," a friend joked when I admitted I'd still not arranged an appointment.
Eventually, I ran out of excuses.
Booking the assessment was easy. Neither my partner nor I needed to prepare in advance, and so all I did was harbour the secret fantasy that we'd be told we were the most fertile couple the clinic had ever seen.
"My God," I imagined the nurses gasping. "You two are so fertile it's a wonder you haven't had an accident yet."
Needless to say, this did not happen.
Good Swimmers, Great Expectations
I walked down Harley Street on an a bright morning towards IVI London's discreet entrance. By the time I arrived, my partner had already completed his part of the assessment. His sperm analysis was over before mine had even begun.
We were shown upstairs, where a nurse checked my BMI and blood pressure before leading us into the consultant's office. Before the examination began, we talked through the mechanics of fertility, and I was surprised by how little I actually knew.
Waiting for my fertility assessment, I hoped the appointment might answer a question I'd been asking myself for years. (Image credit: Mischa Anouk Smith)
Despite years reporting on women's health, often with a laser focus on the so-called "fertility cliff" and motherhood, so much of fertility remained a mystery. The conversation also seemed almost entirely directed towards my body; the egg rather than the sperm.
When my partner's results came back, I was relieved—and vaguely repulsed—to hear he had "good swimmers". Then I felt something else: pressure. He'd been given the all clear, now it felt as though everything rested with me.
There's something about seeing the inside of your own body displayed on a screen that makes catastrophe feel inevitable.
Lying back on the bed, I watched as the ultrasound moved across the walls of my womb before darting from one ovary to the other. Every so often, the consultant would pause to point something out. I tried to hold onto the information, but another thought kept crowding out what the doctor was telling me: What if they find something?
The feeling reminded me of an investigative colonoscopy I'd had the previous year. Rationally, I knew this appointment was meant to reassure rather than alarm. But there's something about seeing the inside of your own body displayed on a screen that makes catastrophe feel inevitable.
The consultant talked us through what she was seeing. I had a small uterus, she explained, though not one that should cause concern. It was slightly triangular rather than T-shaped, but unless I experienced difficulties carrying a pregnancy, there was no reason to intervene. If problems ever did arise, some procedures could reshape it. Knowing there were options felt reassuring.
I couldn't shake the feeling that he'd somehow passed his test while I hadn't.
Then she counted the follicles on my ovaries: six on one, eight on the other. Instinctively, I knew those numbers were lower than I'd hoped.
Perhaps because my partner had already been told he had "good swimmers", I couldn't shake the feeling that he'd somehow passed his test while I hadn't. The consultant tried to assure me this wasn't how fertility worked; she'd be far more concerned by visible cysts or structural abnormalities than the number of follicles she'd counted.
And yet I knew I hadn't heard the last of those follicles.
The Advice I Wasn't Ready to Hear
Once we'd gone through the results in detail, those follicles appeared again. The consultant explained ovarian reserve and how follicles are used to estimate the number of eggs remaining. Every month, a group begins the process of maturing before one is released and the rest disappear.
Because of my follicle count, I was told it would probably take two or three retrieval cycles to freeze enough eggs to give myself the strongest chance of success in the future.
The answer was both simpler and somehow crueller: I should freeze my eggs because I am 35.
Then came the advice. It wasn't delivered dramatically or with any hint that something was wrong, but it was there: if I thought I might want children, I should freeze my eggs now.
If I thought I wanted more than one child, I definitely should.
I was totally unprepared for how being told to freeze my eggs would floor me, even though the advice was expected at my age. (Image credit: Getty Images)
Not because I was infertile or because there was cause for alarm. No, the answer was both simpler and somehow crueller: I should freeze my eggs because I am 35.
I hadn't expected to be so floored by that. Of course, I know that I'm 35, but like so many women my age, forced into a state of prolonged adolescence because of myriad reasons outside our control—graduating into a recession, stagnating wages, a housing crisis—I don't feel 35.
Regardless of my results, regardless of how many follicles had appeared on the scan, regardless of the blood test I was still waiting for, the recommendation would almost certainly have been exactly the same.
Freeze now.
I felt that I was supposed to feel empowered, equipped with new information about my body. But although I understood my physiology better than I had 90 minutes earlier, I felt no closer to understanding myself.
The reassurance I'd hoped to find felt more elusive than ever, slippery like the jelly that had been squirted onto my stomach for the scan.
The fear that time was running out had become more acute. The reassurance I'd hoped to find felt more elusive than ever, slippery like the jelly that had been squirted onto my stomach for the scan.
While I waited for my AMH blood test, another couple argued with a nurse in the waiting room about transporting frozen eggs overseas for a surrogate. The woman became increasingly frustrated. Her husband tried to calm her down.
It struck me then that every conversation taking place inside this Harley Street clinic was, in one way or another, about money. The consultation. The medication. The retrievals. The freezing. The storage. The possibility of IVF years from now. Even uncertainty, it seemed, came with a price tag.
The fertility assessment revealed more about my body than ever before, but it couldn't tell me whether I wanted children. (Image credit: The Vault Store)
I know that AMH tests don't do what they're so often marketed as doing. They can't tell you how long you've "got left", predict whether you'll conceive naturally or tell you if you'll ever become a mother.
I'd written an entire investigation into this myth that women are sold in pursuit of motherhood, and yet I still found myself desperately waiting for that number. I guess I hoped the results would show a surprisingly high egg reserve in defiance of my low follicle count, even though I knew it was the quality, not the quantity, that mattered.
I wanted something that could buy me more time.
It felt like a perfect chicken-and-egg situation. The irony did not escape me.
The irony wasn't lost on me that I couldn't afford the one thing that, in some ways, could buy me more time—egg freezing—even though that, too, came with no guarantee.
Freezing my eggs would likely cost somewhere between £15,000 and £20,000. Money my partner and I are currently trying to save for a house deposit. Spending it on eggs that may never be used would almost certainly delay buying a home. Delaying buying a home would almost certainly delay having children. Delaying having children would only make those frozen eggs feel more necessary.
It felt like a perfect chicken-and-egg situation. Again, the irony did not escape me.
Without stable housing, I can't imagine bringing a child into the world. But waiting until I have that stability means my fertility continues to decline.
I already knew, walking into that clinic, that the biggest obstacle between me and motherhood wouldn't be biological. I walked out steadfast in the knowledge that it was financial.
The Price of Possibility
It's now been six months since the assessment. Largely, I feel the same as before I went: unsure whether I want children, but increasingly aware that time continues to move whether I've made my mind up or not.
The only real difference is that uncertainty has infiltrated my everyday life. Boozy summer nights, stressful weeks at work and my incessantly poor sleep all make me wonder whether I'm damaging eggs I haven't even decided I want to use.
I knew it was naïve to hope the assessment would give me answers. I knew I was simply trying to absolve myself of making my own decision and defer it for a little longer.
Everyone is asking why fertility rates are in decline, why "women aren't having babies". But not enough people are asking how exactly anyone is supposed to make this decision in a world where the timeline of our biology no longer matches the timeline of our lives.
That's the question that angrily flitted around my head as I left IVI London. And, unlike my follicle count, it's one no fertility test can answer.
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When I tell you I have the driest lips in the world, I mean it. They're constantly chapped—a combination of chronic dehydration (I know, I don't help myself) and regular long-haul flights between London and Melbourne. It's certainly not for lack of trying— over my many years as a beauty editor, I’ve tried hundreds of lip balms, from £40 luxe viral hits to £3 cheap-as-chips supermarket bestsellers. And I’ve found some great ones, but I've still never found that one product I can turn to to keep my lips hydrated and smooth in the long run.
So when I heard about lip essences, I knew I was the intended audience. Anything that’s born in the K-beauty space automatically has me hooked (Korean skincare is simply elite), and the premise of a lip product that acts as a skincare essence (an extra hydrating prep step between cleanser/toner and serum) felt very appealing. Here’s what you need to know about this product category, and what happened when I—the perfect reviewer for lip hydrators—gave one a go.
What is a lip essence?
Dr Christine Hall, an aesthetic doctor and K-beauty expert, says that the way lip essences work is what makes them unique. As their name suggests, they’re like a skincare essence step but for the delicate lip area – but with a slightly different delivery method.
“People often think of an essence as the watery skincare layer that sits between your toner and serum when it comes to skincare. With the lips, however, essences are almost always still in balm form,” she says.
An essence aims to hydrate tissue, which means “ingredients are absorbed more effectively.” This can lead to deeper, longer hydration over time. And guess what? When used alongside lip balms, they’re most effective. “There are small experiments where people have shown that applying a standard hydrating serum or essence under your lip balm will increase moisture levels in the lips. Effectively, the essence hydrates and the lip balm occludes the moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss.”
Lip essences, however, do all the work. “In reality, you don't need two steps with them, as they’re formulated with lipids integrated, so they're effectively like a 2-in-1.”
How do they differ from ‘regular’ lip balms?
As Dr Hall explained, the delivery and hydration method is unique in an essence. “Historically, lip balms are about protection, being wax, oil or butter-based. They are about forming a protective barrier and sealing moisture in. Essences, in contrast, are about delivering more than just protection.”
In fact, they’re more like longer-term “skincare to the lips,” she says, rather than simple, short-term protection. And their ingredients lists are what count here. “They are often formulated with ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin to plump, as well as specialised ingredients like PDRN for repair, retinoids for anti-ageing and lactic acid to exfoliate away dry skin.”
Despite this, I won’t lie: I had my doubts. Can lip essences really outperform balms in a noticeable way? Consultant Dermatologist Dr Sidra Khan—despite acknowledging they are undoubtedly a “great product”—says: “'Lip essence’ is largely a marketing term rather than a distinct dermatological category. The Torriden product is essentially a sophisticated lip balm or gloss, combining occlusive ingredients such as petrolatum with emollients including jojoba oil, shea butter and several other plant oils. It also contains ceramides and panthenol, which will help support the lip barrier.”
She says that examples like Torriden’s are undoubtedly “well-formulated product[s]” and “soften dry lips and reduce moisture loss.” However, as it stands, “there is no good evidence that products labelled ‘lip essences’ are inherently more effective than a good traditional, fragrance-free lip balm. They may offer a more lightweight or cosmetically elegant texture, but you are partly paying for the formulation experience and the K-beauty terminology rather than an entirely new category of lip care.”
(Image credit: Rebecca Fearn)
I really enjoyed trying the Torriden Lip Essence and I’m torn between what I think about this product category more generally. On the one hand, this product felt lightweight, silky, smooth and refreshing on my lips, while performing beautifully under lipstick and liner. It also effectively delivered hydration and didn’t need continuous application; in fact, I do see how it could aid in lip health over time, acting more as skincare than simply instant gratification.
However, I’d say this worked similarly to some of the better quality traditional lip balms I’ve used in my time, when we’re discussing initial efficacy for chapped lips. It fixed dryness well, but I’m not sure it did this on a clearly superior level compared to my favourite balms. I would need to try more essences before deciding, and analyse the overall quality of the skin on my lips over time.
That said, I definitely think they’re worth trying if you suffer from very chapped lips—particularly given how affordable many are.
Where can you buy a lip essence?
With K-beauty now in stores such as Boots and Superdrug, trying lip essences is easier than ever. Below are some of the frontrunners and where to pick them up.
Torriden
Lip Essence
A foolproof lip essence you can't go wrong with, Torriden's offering delivers on smooth, hydrated skin.
Haruharu Wonder
Rose PDRN Peptide Glowy Balm
Combine the power of K-beauty lip treatments with a pretty, glowing balm and you get Haruharu Wonder's peptide product.
PMPR
Retinol Volume Lip Serum Bare
Yes, anti-ageing lip essences are a thing - this clever one uses retinol.
Anua
Lip Serum
Anua's buy features hyaluronic acid, collagen and PDRN, along with a non-sticky, glossy texture.
Dr.Reju-all
Advanced pdrn Rejuvenating Lip Serum
Using star ingredient PDRN, Dr.Reju-all's lip serum combines the ingredients of an essence with the texture of a smooth, silky serum.
Bring Green
Bamboo Hyalu Lip Essence Double Pack
Get two for the price of one with this hydrating double pack by Bring Green.
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