Thursday, 17 September 2026

Fragrance Houses Are Becoming Art Galleries—And Bringing the Beauty Counter’s Sense of Community Back

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Any self-confessed beauty lover will likely remember the first time they walked into a beauty hall. The scents, the sound of chatter and leaving with a new beauty treasure (or a few too many samples) nestled into a tissue paper-laden bag.

Long before digital retail and trending brands made beauty a decidedly online experience, the beauty counter served as a sanctuary. For generations, department store beauty halls were unacknowledged third spaces, somewhere accessible between home and work where you could seek advice, test products, and find human connection without an explicit requirement to buy or clear out. Now, some fragrance houses are bringing that feeling back by transforming their physical stores into living cultural galleries.

From interactive shopping experiences to partnerships with up-and-coming artists, by merging scent with fine art, interactive design, and architectural curation, brands like Byredo, Fueguia 1833, and Penhaligon’s are giving visitors a reason to settle in.

Byredo Covent Garden Store

(Image credit: Byredo)

Take Byredo’s flagship store in Covent Garden, which the brand describes as a "moment of stillness within the city’s rhythm". The two-floor space functions as a curated environment where fragrance, design, and art intersect. Rather than purely focusing on the sensorial experience of spritzing a new scent, Byredo has turned the location into an evolving art space, even marking the launch of its Bal d’Afrique Absolu earlier this year with a partnership with Nigerian-British artist Soldier. Their year-long collaboration explores identity and memory through painting and sculpture, complete with IRL "In Conversation With" events.

Similarly, Fueguia 1833 treats its boutiques like botanical research galleries, inviting customers to engage visually and tactilely with hand-blown glass bell jars and raw ingredients before ever committing to a smell.

Over in Soho, Ffern’s flagship store takes a similarly slow, cultural approach to fragrance retail. The brand has long worked with artists and makers, treating the world around each fragrance as an opportunity for creative collaboration rather than simply a vehicle for selling scent, and its physical space feels like an extension of that philosophy. Rather than functioning as a conventional shop designed to move customers from browsing to purchase, it encourages visitors to spend time with fragrance, art, ingredients and craft.

Ffern flagship shop

(Image credit: Edvinas Bruzas for Ffern)

A brand-encouraged moment of 'stillness' or fragrance halls that allow for visual experiences might seem like yet another way to land a 'sell', but with loneliness in the UK reaching record numbers, it seems that these sanctuaries are needed now more than ever. According to the Office for National Statistics (ONS), 49.6% of adults in England—roughly 25.9 million people—report feeling lonely at least occasionally, with 7.1% (around 3.8 million people) experiencing chronic, daily isolation. Young people make up a large chunk of that group, with people aged 16 to 24 reporting persistent loneliness at nearly double the rate of over-65s.

It’s also no coincidence that fragrance flagships are taking their cues from public galleries. According to Art Fund data, 48% of UK adults visit art spaces annually—not just to view works, but to seek community. And according to the YMCA as England has lost over 50% of its youth and community hubs since 2010, many galleries and arts centres have been forced to step up as civic anchors. So, with many of our cities missing the third spaces that foster genuine human connection, beauty is stepping in by adopting gallery-style curation.

Fragrance sits somewhere between art, memory and personal expression—so it makes sense that the spaces where we discover scent reflect that.

Even legacy department stores use fragrance to foster connection. At Liberty, the fragrance hall has been deliberately redesigned to make scent an interactive, visual medium, explains Natalie Guselli, Head of Beauty at Liberty.

“Fragrance is inherently creative—it sits somewhere between art, memory and personal expression - so it makes sense that the spaces we discover scent in are beginning to reflect that." Now, says Guselli, "Customers increasingly want more than a traditional retail experience; they want to explore fragrance in a way that feels immersive, inspiring and culturally relevant. At Liberty, we’ve deliberately looked at how we can take fragrance discovery beyond simply smelling a succession of bottles."

In the spirit of design and creation the brand has become famous for, and just like a gallery, the department store has curated the space with fragrance-themed commissions. "Our nose installation is a playful visual interpretation of scent and an invitation to consider fragrance approachable and interactive," says Guselli. "Artist Tasha Marks designed the wall under the idea that 'anyone can be a nose'. We wanted our fragrance hall to feel democratic, encouraging customers to stop, explore and discover before they necessarily know what they’re looking for."

Liberty fragrance hall

(Image credit: Liberty)

Guselli adds that she sees physical spaces as vital counterweights to digital shopping: "There’s something particularly interesting about making an invisible medium like fragrance visual. Installations, art and design can give physical form to the emotion, storytelling and imagination behind a scent, and ultimately create another route into discovering it."

Noting also that "As beauty becomes increasingly digital, I think physical retail has an even more important role to play in offering experiences that can’t be replicated through a screen. For fragrance especially, stores can become places for cultural discovery as much as product discovery—somewhere customers spend time, encounter new ideas and hopefully leave having found something unexpected.”

Over on the King's Road, Penhaligon's has embraced a similar ethos, designing its flagship as a gallery-like space centred on British craftsmanship. According to Penhaligon’s Global General Manager Julia Koeppen, their "vision for King’s Road was to create a living, evolving space where scent, craft and artistry come together." When considering how to build out the space, Koeppen says the brand "began with narrative rather than product display."

"It's an approach that has found a natural expression through our long-standing partnership with the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust, or QEST, an organisation dedicated to preserving and evolving Britain’s craft heritage by supporting makers and bringing their work to a wider stage", explains Koeppen.

It should feel like a modern salon, intimate, engaging and constantly revealing another layer of the story.

It's impossible to ignore the ever-changing world around us, and despite placing art at the centre of the space, Koeppen explains that the heritage brand has not shied away from our "phygital" reality.

"Our approach at King’s Road is deliberately discreet. Technology should extend the experience, not dominate it. Our digital content reveals the makers, materials and processes behind each exhibition, allowing their stories to live beyond the boutique," explains Koeppen.

Not diluting the core of a heritage fragrance house is vital, Koeppen notes. The physical experience remains at the heart of the concept: encountering the scale and texture of the work, discovering fragrance and engaging in conversation. For us, technology is most effective when it brings people closer to the craft and the people behind it."

As fragrance houses begin to fill some of the void left by shrinking third spaces, Koeppen highlights how even the store layout addresses the demand for community: "King’s Road was conceived as more than a static retail environment. It is an evolving cultural programme, with changing exhibitions, demonstrations, workshops and artist conversations creating new reasons to visit."

Penhaligon's Kings Road

(Image credit: Penhaligon's)

The goal for them? , "is to make the boutique a place of discovery and exchange, where someone might arrive through an interest in contemporary craft and encounter fragrance, or come for Penhaligon’s and discover an artist. It should feel like a modern salon, intimate, engaging and constantly revealing another layer of the story," says Koeppen.

The pressure-free environment that so many beauty lovers use to shop in beauty halls is also at the heart of the store, Koeppen explains.

"The ambition was never to recreate the formality of a traditional gallery," Koeppen says. "We wanted the curatorial confidence of an exhibition within an environment that still feels warm, personal and distinctly Penhaligon’s. The art is given space and presence, but it sits within an intimate, lived-in interior where visitors can browse, ask questions and engage at their own pace. It is refined without being remote, theatrical without becoming intimidating."

Measuring the success of these spaces goes beyond instant transactions. "We are looking at engagement with the exhibitions, time spent in the space, event participation, new client recruitment and whether visitors return as the programme changes," says Koeppen. "We don't see success simply as an immediate sale or a widely shared piece of content. It is whether King’s Road creates a lasting connection and a genuine reason to return."

By returning back to the essence of OG beauty halls and embracing cultural curation, these fragrance houses are offering a modern return to what beauty counters always did best: providing people with an inviting space to slow down and connect.



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Yes, Ibiza Can Work for Grown-Ups: My Recent Trip Proves It's Perfect in Your 30s and 40s

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Skin still wet and lightly salted, I pull a loosely shrugged-on towel tighter round my shoulders and sway to the beat of distant drums. The sky is shifting from mauve to pink, an apricot sun dipping further towards the horizon and I’m still deliciously cool from a swim around the bay. My skipper pours a glass of ice-cold Champagne for me and a friend just as the drumming circle on nearby Cala Benirrás beach cranks up a gear. It’s almost sunset and the pebbled cove to our yacht’s bow is awash with local artists and artisans—a set that gathers here regularly to mark the end of another magical day on the White Isle.

It’s Saturday night in Ibiza and there’s not a super club in sight. Instead, I’m here to experience this iconic island’s wild, northern shores and, more specifically, the adults-only luxury offerings at Cala San Miguel Ibiza Resort—a chic five-star retreat nestled in the nature-rich Sant Joan de Labritja, a 30-minute drive from characterful Old Town and just 10 from the heart of the north’s trendy artisan quarter, San Juan. My days of dancing to a high-octane Calvin Harris set til sunrise have slowly given way to a yearning for slow adventures on the water, nourishing food, and a soulful connection to local customs when I travel, so here I am: sipping bubbles on deck, surrounded by bobbing boats in an azure bay, listening to Bohemians joyfully drum their way into dusk.

Cala San Miguel Ibiza review: How this adults-only resort shows the 'other side' of the party island

What's the hotel like?

cala san miguel in ibiza

(Image credit: Courtesy of Cala San Miguel)

An elegant blend of natural materials—raffia, wood, linen, stone—clad the light, spacious spaces in an earthy palette without them ever feeling Insta-performative or Soho House-heavy.

Then, there’s the Mares Spa—a peaceful, sun-dappled space that’s home to a vast array of Natura Bissé treatments, including blissful body wraps, oxygenating therapies and remineralising treatments. I enjoy a gloriously relaxing full-body massage during my stay, but I would have happily invested in a Mediterranean Openwork treatment—a flowing, wave-like experience inspired by the sea—if time had allowed, too.

What food and drink is on offer?

cala san miguel in ibiza

(Image credit: Courtesy of Cala San Miguel)

Of the seven restaurants, it’s the newly appointed Beach House that pulls everything together perfectly, with its glittering sea views, a daybed-encircled pool and toes-in-sand dining space completing a more-ish menu of coastal plates, including shrimp croquettes, crispy octopus, sea bass ceviche and Bluefin tuna tartare.

I spent a blissful afternoon here indulging in frequent freshwater dips, feasting on crispy calamari and tapping my feet to gentle Balearic beats, book still in hand.

What experiences are on offer at Cala San Miguel Ibiza?

cala san miguel in ibiza

(Image credit: Courtesy of Cala San Miguel)

Often referred to as the last bastion of “real Ibiza”, this quiet, rural pocket is as far from the party scene as you can get. Here, hikes into the aromatic, juniper-dusted hills reign over bass-thumping hyperclubs; sound baths replace foam parties; and self-care—not a Harris-like headliner—is king.

Hopping aboard your own private boat for the day (or evening) is an exciting new offering for Cala San Miguel guests this summer thanks to the resort’s partnership with Barcelona-based De Antonio Yachts, which delivers fully tailored island-hops, sunset sails and snorkelling excursions, depending on your party’s preferences. It’s also a welcome addition to a line-up that focuses on championing north Ibiza’s vibrant culture.

cala san miguel in ibiza

(Image credit: Courtesy of Cala San Miguel)

Experiences here extend beyond the usual yoga and spa sessions (though these are abundant and excellent, too) and instead hone in on the authentic artisan crafts scene that the resort proudly sits within, uniquely connecting travellers to the island’s wild, Balearic heartbeat. Time here can be as immersive—think Ibicencan spirit workshops, sound-healing classes, artisan-led crafting or guided hikes and wine tastings set to live funk music—or as serene as you need to truly reset and replenish.

Fancy flopping by the pool (there’s three elegant swim spots to choose from) before shopping for handmade ceramics in nearby Santa Gertrudis (the “Notting Hill of Ibiza”) or discovering the hippy heritage and gentle bustle of Las Dalias Market? Just ask reception to book you a ride—and be sure to hit cult-worthy Sluiz for maximalist ceramics, Nino D’Agata for gem-adorned jewellery, and The Rose for beautifully hand-sewn silk pieces. Curious to try your hand at crafting a traditional herbal liqueur under the expert eye of a Balearic botanist? Consider yourself an official trainee thanks to the hotel’s impressive access to under-the-radar artisans.

cala san miguel in ibiza

(Image credit: Courtesy of Cala San Miguel)

“From sunrise yoga to guided hikes and art jam sessions, each experience is designed to connect guests to Ibiza’s natural rhythm and carefree spirit,” Carolina Fraga Rua, a manager at the resort, says. “Cala San Miguel is dedicated to preserving this special corner of the island, offering guests a gateway to the true essence of the north,” she adds with a warm, infectious smile while booking me into Pilates.

I may only be here for a long weekend, but I’m already tuning into the north’s “natural rhythm” and letting the demanding daily maelstrom of social media, work and family commitments melt into the periphery.

cala san miguel in ibiza

(Image credit: Courtesy of Cala San Miguel)

That’s the thing with doing Ibiza as a grown-up, though: between shopping the stylish, independent wares of eclectic San Juan, diving into secluded turquoise coves from the stern of your own private yacht, or indulging in nourishing Mediterranean fare poolside, there’s no time for hangovers or repeats.

Soaking up the true spirit of Ibiza is a full-time occupation in the north. And honestly? It feels like a soul-restoring break—not a holiday I need a holiday to recover from. My super club days may be behind me, but this pocket of Balearic wilderness proves the White Isle still has plenty to offer travellers in their post-party era. I can’t wait to sway to the beat of the northern shore’s drum again soon.

A stay at Cala San Miguel Ibiza Resort, Curio Collection by Hilton starts from €300/£250 in a superior room on a bed and breakfast basis.



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I’m a Corporate Lawyer, and This is How I'm Wearing the 3 New Trouser Trends at Work

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There’s something about September that always makes me want to rethink my work wardrobe. After the lighter, more relaxed dressing of summer, the return to the office feels like the perfect opportunity for a sartorial reset—and this season, I’m starting with trousers.

For me, the right pair of trousers can completely transform how you feel in your clothes. They can sharpen a blazer, make a simple shirt feel considered and, perhaps most importantly, set the tone for how you want to show up at work.

This Autumn, I’m embracing three silhouettes: the barrel leg, the wide leg and the flare. Each has a very different personality, but all three have one thing in common: they make a statement without sacrificing sophistication.

The Barrel Leg

Mariko Kuo

(Image credit: Mariko Kuo)

The barrel leg is probably the silhouette that feels most fashion of the three—and that’s exactly why I love it. I'm not going to lie, when I first saw it, I had my reservations, but when you try them on, they are incredibly flattering.

With its distinctive curved shape, the barrel trouser creates volume through the leg before tapering towards the ankle. Rather than clinging to the body, the silhouette creates space around it, which can actually make the waist appear more defined. There’s something very chic about that contrast between a defined waist and the softly curved leg.

Mariko Kuo

(Image credit: Mariko Kuo)

It’s also a great way to make your existing work wardrobe feel new again. Take the same white shirt and blazer you might normally wear with a straight trouser and swap in a barrel leg—suddenly, the entire outfit feels more directional.

I tend to balance the volume with something more fitted or tucked in on top. A slim knit, crisp shirt or structured blazer works beautifully, particularly when the waist is clearly defined.

For me, this is the trouser to choose when you want your colleagues to think “she really knows fashion” rather than simply “she’s wearing another suit.”

My rule: let the trouser do the talking. Keep the rest of the look clean and considered.

The Wide Leg

Mariko Kuo

(Image credit: Mariko Kuo)

If I had to choose one trouser shape that best represents my approach to workwear, it would probably be the wide leg.

There is simply something about a beautifully tailored wide-leg trouser that makes you stand a little taller. Perhaps that’s why the silhouette has become such an important part of modern power dressing. It has presence without being rigid, and confidence without feeling overtly masculine.

When I have an important meeting or a day packed with senior-level conversations, this is often the silhouette I reach for. This is power dressing without needing to rely on the traditional sharp, restrictive suit.

For September, I’d style a high-waisted wide leg with a fitted shirt or fine-gauge knit, adding a belt to define the waist. A tonal blazer makes the look feel particularly polished, while a point-toe shoe underneath helps emphasise that elongated line.

My rule: embrace the volume and commit to the proportion. A wide leg looks best when it feels intentional.

The Flared Leg

Mariko Kuo

(Image credit: Mariko Kuo)

The flare is the trouser shape I reach for when I want something that feels feminine, sophisticated and effortlessly elongating.

The beauty of a flare is its ability to create the illusion of longer legs. Fitted through the waist and thigh before subtly widening from the knee, it draws the eye downwards and creates a beautifully elegant line.

It also has a softer quality than some of the more architectural trouser shapes. Worn with a blazer, silk shirt or fine knit, a flare feels polished enough for the office but still distinctly feminine.

Mariko Kuo

(Image credit: Mariko Kuo)

For work, I particularly love a tailored flare in a dark neutral—black, navy, charcoal or chocolate brown. Add a pointed pump or slim ankle boot and the effect is incredibly flattering.

There’s also something timeless about this silhouette. Unlike some of the more fleeting trouser trends, a well-cut flare has a longevity that makes it worth investing in.

My rule: choose the longest length you can comfortably wear with your shoes. The closer the hem is to the floor, the more leg-elongating the effect.



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’90s Kate Moss, Stevie Nicks and “Digital” Skin—The Beauty References to Inspire You for the Season Ahead

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Fashion month has officially begun, which means that everyone working behind the scenes is currently in the eye of the storm. Designers are finalising last-minute tweaks, while teams hold briefings on the minute details of hair, make-up, and nails.

As someone who spends most of Fashion Week backstage, the attention to detail I see is awe-inspiring. I'm always surprised, too, by the number of references that session stylists and MUAs come armed with. There's an incredible amount of research that goes into translating a designer's vision into the beauty looks we see on the runway.

So, to get the inside track on SS27, I spoke to some of the biggest names in hair and make-up to find out what’s been inspiring them backstage, and the cultural references they’re bringing with them this Fashion Week. Their insights, ahead.

Sam McKnight, Celebrity Session Hairstylist and Founder

Sam McKnight's SS26 Beauty Inspiration

(Image credit: Getty / Sam Mcknight / The Vault)

Inspiration: "My travels this year have been a real inspiration, from heading to Tuscany and Ibiza over the summer, to trips to Dorset along the coast, right through to Sri Lanka earlier in the year," says Sam McKnight. Travel for me opens up so many different aspects of culture. The music, the architecture and particularly the people. Ive always loved to people gaze. I’m particularly drawn to nature through my travels, the texture and and colours are always inspiring when it comes to hair, and I’m often snapping away at flowers, or corners here and there.

Mood of the season: "This season we’ll see more texture. We're still leaning into the luxe, healthy hair finish, but with more movement and embracing more of a softer side."

Carly Utting, Editorial MUA and MAC Senior Artist

Carly Utting's SS26 Beauty Inspiration

(Image credit: Getty / The Vault)

Inspiration: "This season I’m obsessed with anything that feels whimsical, romantic and slightly witchy," says Carly Utting. I keep coming back to pale, glassy translucent skin, with the addition of darkness, a blood-red Siouxsie Sioux lip or a Robert Smith–esque black eye. I think people are craving escapism at the moment, something fantastical and far removed from the everyday. I’m looking at references like ’70s Stevie Nicks and Galliano-era Dior, where romance, drama and fantasy combine. I’m also obsessed with the film, The Love Witch: the super saturated, technicolor blues against the sickly peachy-pink tones scratch an itch. It has a Wes Anderson-like clash of colour, but with a sexy feminine glamour running through it. I’m really drawn to ’60s sex sirens, Madonna’s Erotica era and even the slightly trashy glamour of ’90s Page 3 imagery.

Mood of the season: "Texture will be a huge part of how I translate those references backstage for SS27. I’m always searching for finishes that make makeup feel new, something reflective, wet, glassy or powdered. I’m really interested in digital texture at the moment: the hyper-real, reflective finish you see in digital fantasy imagery, where skin and shine just look too perfect to be real. I love the idea of taking that feeling and trying to recreate it physically on a face."

Larry King, Celebrity Session Hairstylist and Founder

Larry King's SS26 Beauty Inspiration

(Image credit: Getty / Larry King )

Inspiration: "I've been drawn to the rawness of '90s fashion photography and magazines, so details from Corinne Day's editorials for The Face when it was in its early days," says Larry King. "Everything was a little less polished and more real. Films like Reality Bites and Trainspotting also capture that slightly rebellious undone attitude. Kate Moss, Winona Ryder and Chloë Sevigny during that time is a big visual reference too. They had individuality, great cuts and hair that didn’t look overly 'done'."

Mood of the season: "It’s that sense of imperfection and personality that feels relevant again now: moving away from the super-glossy, uniform aesthetic towards something more individual and a little rougher around the edges. The glossy, polished S-waves and pristine blowouts we’ve seen for years are starting to give way to more irregular waves, lived-in texture and deliberately undone styling. Hair still feels considered and beautifully finished, but less perfect... Cooler, looser and with a slightly unkempt edge. We’re also seeing a return to proper, statement haircuts, with the cut becoming just as important as the styling."

Nick Irwin, Session Hairstylist and Schwarzkopf Global Ambassador

Nick Irwin's SS26 beauty inspiraiton

(Image credit: Getty / Launch Metrics)

Inspiration: "A large part of my references for this season stems from my ongoing relationship with British fashion designer LABRUM, and its exploration of African identity and heritage," says Nick Irwin. To understand their vision, we need to look into the history of African hair, not simply as a form of beauty, but as a visual language. Hair has long communicated identity, status, community, spirituality and belonging. Braiding patterns, adornment and styling carry meaning, with details such as cowrie shells historically representing prosperity, wealth and protection. Contemporary African and cultural icons, from music, fashion and nightlife to wider subcultures, like A$AP Rocky, are equally important references. Their attitude, individuality and relationship with hair push my research forward and keep my work connected to the present."

Mood of the season: "For SS27, the approach should feel informed rather than nostalgic. We are not recreating historical hairstyles; we are taking elements of their language and translating them through a modern lens. Hair should feel alive, directional and modern. Products and styling allow us to create something that acknowledges their cultural roots while feeling completely relevant to SS27."



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Wednesday, 16 September 2026

Why We Should Care About Sexualisation in Women's Sport—and How It’s Bigger Than Sydney Sweeney

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Last month, Marie Claire UK released our sixth annual Women in Sport issue, celebrating the many strides we've made on and off the field of play. I myself penned an article, documenting the myriad ways today’s female athletes influence society, not just through their performances, but in their contributions to broadcasting, activism, innovation, management and policymaking.

Coming away from that piece, you’d conclude that women are active, valued and respected members of sporting communities. And in many ways we are. This year the largest media rights deal in women’s sporting history was signed by the WNBA. In football, the women’s game is expected to have over 800 million fans by 2030, making it one of the world’s top five sports. And at the Paris 2024 Olympics, nearly 40% of commentators on Olympic broadcasting services were female—an uptick of more than 200% since Rio 2016.

This all only makes it more dystopian that, this month, I’m sitting down to unravel an online storm around the sexualisation of women’s bodies within sports marketing. In the blink of an eye, or in this case, the release of a 58-second Instagram advert by a sports betting platform, women’s entire right to exist safely within sport has been called into an algorithmically-driven question.

If you have social media and follow women’s sport, you’ll know exactly what I’m referring to. But we want to be clear here—this isn't an attack on the individual actor who fronts the campaign. There are enough reels scrutinising her on your For You Page for that.

Instead, I'm exploring the systemic and cultural issues which prompted an advert like this to be created, and what the reaction tells us about the current safety of women in sport.

Breaking Down the Sydney Sweeney Novig Ad—and What It Means for the Future of Advertising

Why is the ‘Just Sports’ ad problematic?

First of all, let’s be clear. The Just Sports advert doesn’t try to present Sydney Sweeney as a female athlete. That’s part of what makes it so uncomfortable. In the video, her body is sexualised and used to sell sports betting to men. Her role, adjacent to but not actively participating in sport, speaks to an archaic, but not unfamiliar, position for women.

“Historically, women were rendered accessories to the action,” explains sport sociologist Dr Bethan Taylor-Swaine. “We were ring girls, grid girls and cheerleaders, there only to provide the entertainment between the competitions.”

Even when we did break free from the sidelines (note: women didn’t compete in the full Olympic programme until London 2012), our position as entertainers for the male gaze has lingered in the systems, customs and regulations around sport. It’s why we saw the Norwegian handball team fined for wearing shorts instead of bikini bottoms at the 2021 European Championships and why in 2024, female athletes from team USA had to contest their Olympic kit for being too revealing.

Historically, women were rendered accessories to the action. We were ring girls, grid girls and cheerleaders, there only to provide the entertainment between the competitions.

Sport sociologist Dr Bethan Taylor-Swaine

It’s also why I, when I was a 13-year-old junior athlete, felt more preoccupied by the way I looked in my skimpy crop top and running briefs than in my on-track performances. It’s why, as a kid, content creator Mary McCarthy worried more about her post-race photos than about the races she’d won, and why 73% of girls say they don’t like others watching them exercise. This sense of being constantly observed from a young age is also part of the reason up to 45% of female athletes struggle with disordered eating. “Women are still making choices about the way their bodies should look and what they should do with them based on a patriarchal ideal that’s been set for centuries,” explains sports dietitian Renee McGregor.

This is why the Just Sports campaign has had such an impact. “The reaction is fundamentally about context, power and history,” explains Professor Philippa Velija, Professor of Sociology and Interim Dean of the School of Education at the University of Roehampton. “Female athletes are not necessarily objecting to sexuality itself; rather, they are responding to a cultural environment in which their athletic legitimacy is often overshadowed by a focus on appearance.”

“Women in all sports, including players and spectators, have had to fight for the right to be taken seriously,” echoes Professor Stacey Pope, Director of Research in Sport and Exercise Sciences at Durham University. “Adverts such as this touch a powerful nerve, because they show just how fragile the nature of women's progress in sport has been.”

For more evidence of this fragility, you don’t have to look far. Just weeks before Novig’s advert, an audio clip went viral online, in which a manosphere podcaster argues that women who participate in sport go against their essential role of femininity. And in July, the European Broadcasting Union produced a 23-page document containing new filming regulations for camera angles in track and field after it found that female athletes were being disproportionately targeted by low-angle and lingering body shots.

Women in all sports have had to fight to be taken seriously. Adverts such as this touch a powerful nerve because they show how fragile the nature of women's progress in sport is.

Professor Stacey Pope, Director of Research in Sport and Exercise Sciences at Durham University

“We’re living in a time where politics is becoming more right-wing and beauty standards are shifting back towards an outdated thin ideal,” says Dr Taylor-Swaine, who points to a recent article published by The Telegraph with the headline, ‘Slim and beautiful women are back in fashion. Thank God for that.’ “These are tools used to reinforce patriarchal norms by preoccupying women with their cosmetic presentation.”

It’s a murky, and at times downright ugly, backdrop, one which contextualises the emotive response to Novig’s advert. That’s all before you even consider that this is a brand which sells gambling to men—an activity which research shows interacts with violence against women and girls, thanks to its connections to substance abuse, shame, stress and stigma.

But even with all this context, you still wonder why, when revenue from women’s sport is growing 4.5 times faster than men’s and athletes are reported to hold more influence over consumers than celebrities, would a brand choose to present such a backward depiction of women in sport?

What was the motivation behind the Just Sports advert?

While we’ll never know for certain what guided the creative direction of Novig’s campaign, the likelihood, according to Sinead Brennan, Head of Social at creative agency Hijinks, is rage bait.

Built to inflame and infuriate, rage bait content has grown at pace since the early 2020s, when algorithms began to consistently reward divisive content. “Rage bait becomes its own content generator,” explains Brennan. “You don’t need people to love, like or even know your brand in order to give them a strong reason to participate—all you need is to create a reaction strong enough that it makes them want to say something.”

Rage bait becomes its own content generator. All you need is to create a reaction strong enough.

Sinead Brennan, Head of Social at creative agency Hijinks

For a relatively unknown brand like Novig, you can see why that tactic appeals. In the space of a single day, “They’ve gone from a brand most people wouldn’t have heard of to one that we recognise and talk about,” says Brennan. And, as she points out, they’ve done it while drawing little attention to the service they’re actually selling. “In most categories, this would be a bad thing,” says Brennan, “but given the negative connotations of gambling, the ability to build familiarity and cultural relevance around the brand before people register that it’s a betting product, is powerful.”

It’s an uncomfortable truth, one which gets even more uncomfortable when you consider Sweeney’s role in the saga. “I don't doubt that she [Sweeney] is a product of the system and that she, consciously or otherwise, has been exploited,” says Dr Taylor Swaine. “But, as an equity partner in the brand, she is also a beneficiary of the system that has, in this case, been engineered to ultimately benefit her.”

How should we respond to the Just Sports ad?

Of course, all this raises the question of whether the backlash to the advert has given Novig exactly what they wanted.

But on the other hand, the reaction from female athletes, creators and fans has felt overwhelmingly heartwarming; we shouldn't have to call ads like this out, but it has highlighted that we aren't willing to ignore inequality in this sphere any longer. We've worked too hard for too long not to call it out. Marie Claire UK's Senior Health Editor Ally Head said as much to me this week. "From the negativity comes one undeniable positive; my entire feed is flooded with strong, active women sharing what working out looks like for them, and swapping personal stories and anecdotes. Conversations have been sparked worldwide about what being a woman in sport truly means, cementing how passionate people feel about levelling the playing field."

She goes on: "I doubt we'd have seen this response five or so years ago, which unequivocally proves how far we've come. Seeing women (and people of other genders) come together to collectively say no and stand up for women's rights is a beautiful thing."

Conversations have been sparked worldwide about what being a woman in sport truly means, cementing how passionate people feel about levelling the playing field.

Senior Health Editor Ally Head

To continue positive change, we need to encourage conversations around women’s role in sport long after this trend fades. “There has been a certain amount of jumping on the bandwagon around women’s safety and gender in sport in response to the advert,” explains Dr Taylor-Swaine. “While it’s well-intentioned, and we do want people to talk about these issues, we also need them to continue using their platforms to support work that’s been going on in this landscape for a long time, even once the opportunity for trending content dies down.”

Nicola Kemp, communications co-chair for the WACL, echoes this. “This is a great opportunity to showcase the importance of women and girls feeling like they belong in sport,” she says.

If you’re looking for ways to stay consistently involved in the conversation around women’s role and safety in sport, Dr Taylor-Swaine (whose own Instagram and Substack are a treasure trove of knowledge) has some recommendations. “On an individual basis, challenge misogynistic comments when you see or hear them, provided of course you feel safe and able to do so.”

On an educational level, she recommends following Our Streets Now, an organisation which works against public sexual harassment, and This Ends Now, a charity which challenges gender based oppression. Then there’s The Gist, a sports media brand which provides genuinely equal coverage of men’s and women’s sports. And of course, there’s the wealth of women’s health and fitness content right here at Marie Claire UK. We’ve got deep dives into the silence around endometriosis in sport, the barriers to exercise safety for women and why the rates of domestic abuse rise when England loses a football game.

As for a parting message, we’ll leave you with this from Dr Taylor-Swaine. “Speak out, challenge your own perceptions and those of people around you, read lots and crucially, watch women’s sport—not just the big games, but the ones played by your local team.”



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I Just Got Back From New York: These 6 Outfits Deserve a Spot in Your Autumn Rotation

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The plus side to seeing runway collections six months before they actually land in stores? We know exactly what's coming. The downside? We have to wait half a year to actually invest and enjoy it. And so we're left in limbo, working out how to translate every Fashion Week trend, inspiration-driving outfit and colour palette into the here and now—the era of same-day delivery and constant connection putting our patience on the back foot. But luckily, at New York Fashion Week, there's no shortage of Autumn-ready looks to turn to. Six of my favourites are listed below.

Take Tory Burch's more punchy take on officewear as perhaps the best example: embroidered cardigans, pencil skirts, and car coats aplenty. Ralph Lauren's boho-baroque blazers, shearling collars, jeans and velvet duster coats offer equal Autumn dressing inspiration. And TWP's mix of trench coats and water-resistant wardrobe staples feels wonderfully wintery. Even Diotima, where Rachel Scott drew her inspiration from the Caribbean sea, couldn't resist the pull of a great wool-blend maxi coat.

And so while Spring/Summer 27 may be printed across each invitation, it's not too early to start creating our own interpretations. Some inspiration to get you started, below. Though best believe I'm still marking my calendar for when those Tory Burch cardigans and Ralph Lauren's blazer actually arrive in store, and I know I'm not the only one.

The 6 New York Fashinon Week Outfits That Deserve a Spot on Your Autumn Moodboard

TWP's Bold Blue Colourblock

TWP SS27 runway blue shirt blue trousers

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TWP, an acronym for founder Trish Wescoat Pound, is the under-the-radar brand currently weaving its way into many a fashion editor's conversations. Practical and polished in equal measure, with trench coats, sheer shirts and bolo ties sitting in core focus. One favourite statement-making look? This cobalt blue colourblocked trouser and shirt. Proof that loud looks can also be incredibly easy.

Tory Burch Cardigan + Skirt

Tory Burch ss27 runway

(Image credit: Tory Burch)

A Tory Burch renaissance is upon us—just take a look at the shoes—and the most recent runway only served as further evidence of why. Alexa Chung and Emily Ratajkowski were among the model line-up, where office-friendly combinations of cardigans and midi skirts took centre stage. Embroidery and embellishment adding an extra dose of fun.

Ralph Lauren's Baroque Blazer

Ralph Lauren SS27 floral blazer white trousers

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There are, of course, no winners when it comes to Fashion Week, but it's Ralph Lauren's boho baroque everyone's still speaking about. Velvet duster coats, shearling collars and floral brocade blazers are set to trickle down to the high street in no time. Though this floral blazer, white trouser and statement gold-tone necklace look feels especially apt for Autumn.

Monse's Draped Dress

Monse SS27 green draped dress

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If it's event dressing inspiration you're after, the Monse show deserves more than just a moment of your attention. One highlight for the Autumn season: this draped green dress. A classic shape and with ample iterations to suit all.

Carolina Herrera's Autumn-Approved Silk Scarf

Carolina Herrera SS27 runway trench coat dress

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If you're packing away your silk scarf after a summer of styling it across your head, waist and neck, don't act so fast. Carolina Herrera—who turned the David H. Koch Theatre into a tulip field with Pamela Anderson, Fran Lebowitz, Alexa Chung and many more famous faces sat front row—makes an especially strong case for wearing it with a trench coat. This may be one of the easiest yet most glamorous Autumn outfits worth recreating.

DVF's Fun-First Workwear

Diane Von Furstenberg SS27 green suit

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At no other fashion week will you find more inspiration for your office wardrobe, New York officially leading the pack when it comes professional pieces. Though Henry Zankov's Diane von Furstenberg debut proves officewear absolutely needn't be boring. A bold coloured suit paired with a graphic shirt being the maximalist-approved take to workwear dressing.



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